A beginner's guide to golf clubs

Starting the game of golf can feel overwhelming for beginners, and a large part of that is the equipment we use. There are drivers, woods, hybrids, driving irons, iron sets, wedges and putters. Dozens of golf brands, all claiming to be the best. The good news is you don't need to perfectly understand all of this before getting started and you certainly don't need to spend a fortune. 

This guide will break down all the different types of clubs you'll come across, what each one of them is for, the main brands worth knowing, and most importantly what a beginner should actually be carrying. By the end you'll know enough to put together a sensible bag without wasting money on clubs you wont use or can't hit yet. 

Main takeaways

• The rules allow up to 14 clubs in your bag, but beginners rarely need all 14 to start with.

• Forgiveness matters far more than distance or looks when you're learning, so game improvement clubs are your friend.

• Hybrids are one of the most beginner friendly clubs you can own and should usually replace your hardest to hit irons.

• All the major brands make excellent beginner gear, so the bigger decision is buying smart rather than chasing a particular badge.

How many clubs can you carry?

The rules of golf allow a maximum of 14 clubs in your bag at any one time. That's the ceiling, not the target. Plenty of beginners feel they need to fill all 14 slots straight away, but that just means carrying clubs you can't yet use and spending money you don't need to spend.

A typical full bag is made up of a driver, a couple of fairway woods or hybrids, a set of irons, a few wedges and a putter. As a beginner you can comfortably play and improve with far fewer than that, and we'll cover a sensible starter setup near the end. First, let's go through what each club actually does.

The driver

The driver is the biggest club in the bag and the one designed to hit the ball the furthest. It has the largest head, the longest shaft and the lowest loft, and it's used almost exclusively off a tee on longer holes where you want maximum distance. 

It's also the hardest club in the bag to hit consistently, which is worth knowing as a beginner. The long shaft and low loft make it less forgiving than your other clubs, so mishits get punished more. The trick is to look for a driver built for forgiveness, with a large head, a high moment of inertia (MOI) and often a slight draw bias to counteract the slice that most beginners fight. You don't need to chase the fastest, lowest spinning tour driver. You need one that stays stable on off centre strikes and gets the ball in play.

Fairway woods

Fairway woods are the next longest clubs after the driver. They have smaller heads than a driver and a bit more loft, and as the name suggests they're designed to be hit off the ground from the fairway, though you can also tee them up on shorter holes where the driver is too much club.

Woods numbers generally vary from 3, 5, 7 and 9, each representing a different loft and length of club. The higher number the wood, the higher loft the wood has, meaning getting the ball in the air is easier but it will travel a shorter distance. The typical lofts for each of these fairway woods are 15º, 18º, 21º and 24º.

As fairway woods are quite tricky to hit consistently off the ground, the higher lofted options like the 5, 7 and 9 woods are generally more beneficial to beginners as they can more consistently get the ball in the air.

Hybrids

Hybrids are arguably the most beginner friendly clubs you can own, and if there's one type to pay attention to as a new golfer, it's this one. A hybrid blends the design of a fairway wood and an iron, giving you a compact, confidence inspiring head that's far easier to launch than a long iron. One of the biggest advantages to having hybrids in your bag is how versatile they are, they can be used from the tee, fairway and even the rough. 

Long irons, the 3, 4 and sometimes 5 iron, are notoriously difficult for beginners and even many experienced golfers to hit well. They have low loft and small heads, which leaves very little room for error. A hybrid does the same job, covering those longer distances, but gets the ball up in the air with far less effort and stays forgiving on mishits.

The standard advice, and it's good advice, is to replace your hardest to hit long irons with hybrids of a matching number. Many beginners carry two or even three hybrids and rarely regret it.

Driving Irons

Driving irons sit between a hybrid and a long iron, and there are many different types of driving iron. In this case I'm generally referring to all types of long irons, utility irons and driving irons. Designed to hit low, penetrating ball flights from off the tee or from the fairway on longer holes. You'll often hear them referred to their numbers such as 2 iron or 3 iron. 

The appeal is a strong, low ball flight that holds its line in the wind. Often used more around "links courses" where the wind speed is higher and the ground is firmer so you get more roll out on each shot. The major trade off to all of this is they are much harder to hit than regular hybrids or high lofted woods. The smaller heads and low lofts leave little margin for error, while also requiring a high clubhead speed just to get the ball up in the air. 

For these reasons, driving irons are not well suited for beginner golfers. A hybrid or a high lofted wood would do a much better job for someone just starting. It's worth knowing what they are and what they can do though as they may be beneficial down the line once you develop the speed and consistency.

Iron sets

Irons make up the bulk of your set and are used for the majority of your approach shots into the green. A set is numbered, traditionally running from around the 4 or 5 iron through to the pitching wedge, with each club getting progressively more lofted and shorter. Lower numbered irons go further and are harder to hit, while higher numbered irons are shorter, more lofted and more forgiving.

For beginners the key distinction is between game improvement irons and players irons. Players irons have thin toplines, small heads and minimal offset, and they're built for skilled golfers who want to shape shots. They are unforgiving and not what you want when you're learning. Game improvement irons, often known as cavity back irons and sometimes taken further into the super game improvement category, are the opposite. They have larger heads, wider soles, thicker toplines, perimeter weighting and offset designed to help you get the ball airborne and flying straight, even when you don't catch it cleanly.

As a beginner, game improvement or super game improvement irons are always the right choice. 

Wedges

Wedges are your highest lofted clubs, used for shorter approach shots, chipping around the green and getting out of bunkers. There are four common types.

The pitching wedge is the lowest lofted and as mentioned above usually comes as part of your iron set, typically around 44º-48º. The gap wedge fills the distance gap between your pitching and sand wedges, either 50º or 52º. The sand wedge is designed, as the name suggests, for bunkers and soft lies, with a loft of 54º-56º. The lob wedge is the highest lofted and used for short, high shots that stop quickly, and can be anything 58º and above.

As a beginner you don't need all four. The pitching wedge that comes with your irons plus a sand wedge will cover almost everything you face early on. You can add a gap or lob wedge later once you've developed a feel for your distances and your short game.

The putter

The putter is the club you'll use more than any other, since it's how you roll the ball into the hole once you're on the green. Despite that, it's often the most overlooked club for beginners.

Putters come in two broad shapes. Blade putters are smaller and more traditional, favoured by players with a particular putting stroke and a preference for feel. Mallet putters have larger, heavier heads with more forgiveness and alignment aids built in, which makes them easier to aim and more stable on off centre strikes.

In recent years, we've seen the introduction of a third type of putter, the zero torque. These are designed to limit the face rotation through the stroke to get more putts going straighter towards the hole. Although they represent a major leap in putter technology and theoretically help make putting easier, I would suggest against beginners buying zero torque putters purely from a cost perspective. 

For most beginners a mallet putter is the easier club to start with. More than anything, a putter needs to feel comfortable and look good to your eye, so this is one club genuinely worth trying before you commit.

Shafts and Flex

All clubs you'll encounter will have a specific shaft and flex that comes with it, so it's worth gaining a basic understanding of what it means. Drivers, woods and hybrids commonly come with graphite shafts, which are lighter and help generate more clubhead speed. Irons, wedges and putters generally come with steel shafts which are heavier and offer more control, though graphite shafts are increasingly common and a good option for slow swing speeds. 

The flex of a shaft refers to how much the shaft bends during the swing, ranging from extra stiff down to ladies flex. The faster you swing, the stiffer the shaft you require. The full breakdown of the flexes going from firm to soft include; extra stiff, stiff, regular, senior, ladies. Most beginners would start on regular flex unless they have a particularly fast or slow swing speed. Getting it roughly right does matter though as a shaft that is too whippy or too stiff will make it harder to launch and keep the face pointing in the right direction. 

Different shafts also tend to come in different weights, the weight you require will generally come down to the tempo of your swing and how strong you are. If a beginner is relatively strong and has no difficulty in producing a high clubhead speed then a heavier shaft will slow his swing down, helping create a better tempo which will help overall consistency in the long run. 

Major Golf Brands

Every major golf brand makes excellent beginner friendly equipment, so you'll always have plenty of choice out there. There's a handful of names that dominate the game, often thought of as the big five, followed by a number of other strong brands well worth knowing.

The big five are Ping, Titleist, Callaway, TaylorMade and Cobra. Ping has a long standing reputation for building some of the most forgiving and reliable clubs in the game, and their game improvement irons and draw biased drivers are particularly beginner friendly. Titleist sits slightly more towards the better player end, especially with their irons, wedges and putters, though the quality is superb if you want clubs to grow into. Callaway is known for forgiving irons and clever face technology that filters down through every price point. TaylorMade is a powerhouse for distance and forgiveness, especially in drivers and fairway woods, with a range that runs from beginner gear all the way up to tour clubs. Cobra rounds out the five with exceptional innovation, most recently with their 3D printed line of clubs that offer high level of forgiveness in compact aesthetically looking heads.

Beyond the big five, there are several other brands that deserve a mention. Mizuno is renowned for the feel of its irons and is a favourite among purists. Srixon offers excellent performance and value across its irons, woods and golf balls. Cleveland is a specialist in the short game and makes some of the most popular and forgiving wedges in golf, a great shout when you come to add to your set. Wilson combines a long heritage with strong value, and is particularly well known for beginner friendly clubs and package sets.

The takeaway is that you can't really go wrong with any of these brands as a beginner. We stock all of them, and the more important decision is not which brand you choose, but which models in particular. 

What should a beginner actually buy?

In my opinion, although you're allowed up to 14 clubs in your bag, most beginners are better off starting with around 10. It goes without saying that those clubs should be forgiving, game improvement models that are easy to get up in the air and easy to hit. As for what to actually carry, the minimum you need is a driver, one long game option in either a fairway wood or a hybrid, ideally with plenty of loft so you can use it consistently, an iron set running from the 5 iron down to the pitching wedge, since a 4 iron is generally too difficult for a beginner to hit, a sand wedge to cover your short game and chipping, and finally a putter.

A setup like this gives you everything you need to play the course while leaving room to grow into your game. Carrying fewer clubs actually makes learning easier, since you've got fewer options to second guess and you'll quickly get a feel for the distances each club covers. Over time you'll work out which clubs you hit well and feel confident standing over, and which gaps in your bag are worth filling, whether that's an extra wedge for more control around the greens or a hybrid to replace a tricky long iron. Building your set this way means every club you add is one you've chosen for a reason, rather than filling your bag to the brim from day one and wasting money on clubs that barely leave the bag.

It's also worth thinking about buying second hand. Quality used clubs from the big brands cost a fraction of the new price, which keeps your costs down while you're still finding your feet. It means you can get into better, more forgiving gear than your budget might otherwise stretch to, and there's far less pressure to commit when you're still figuring out what suits your game. For a beginner building a first bag, used clubs are the smart way to get properly equipped without overspending.

Conclusion

Golf equipment seems complicated from the outside, but the fundamentals are simple. Understand what each club does, lean towards forgiveness while you're learning, don't carry clubs you can't yet hit, and buy smart rather than expensive. Get those basics right and you'll have a bag that genuinely helps you improve, without spending more than you need to. The rest comes with time on the course.